Lets get this right

Blood Ninja!

2004-12-14T01:11:00.000-08:00

I didnt write any of this and I give full credit to Blood Ninja as he is a true hero...

http://www.adamchance.com/funny.htm

Letter Bomb

2004-10-17T18:09:00.000-07:00

- You will first have to make a mild version of thermite. Use my recipe, but substitute iron fillings for rust.
- Mix the iron with aluminum fillings in a ratio of 75% aluminum to 25% iron. This mixture will burn violently in a closed space (such as an envelope). This bring us to our next ingredient...
- Go to the post office and buy an insulated (padded) envelope. You know, the type that is double layered... Seperate the layers and place the mild thermite in the main section, where the letter would go. Then place magnesium powder in the outer layer. There is your bomb!!
- Now to light it... this is the tricky part and hard to explain. Just keep experimenting until you get something that works. The fuse is just that touch explosive I have told you about in another one of my anarchy files. You might want to wrap it like a long cigarette and then place it at the top of the envelope in the outer layer (on top of the powdered magnesium). When the touch explosive is torn or even squeezed hard it will ignite the powdered magnesium (sort of a flash light) and then it will burn the mild thermite. If the thermite didn't blow up, it would at least burn the fuck out of your enemy (it does wonders on human flesh!).
NOW that is REVENGE!

Pipe Hand Grenades

2004-10-13T21:38:00.000-07:00

Hand Grenades can be made from a piece of iron pipe. The filler can be of plastic or granular military explosive, improvised explosive, or propellant from shotgun or small arms munition. Material Required: ----------------- Iron Pipe, threaded ends, 1-1/2" to 3" diameter, 3" to 8" long.
Two (2) iron pipe caps
Explosive or propellant
Nonelectric blasting cap (Commercial or military)
Fuse cord
Hand Drill
PliersProcedure: --------- 1) Place blasting cap on one end of fuse cord and crimp with pliers. NOTE: To find out how long the fuse cord should be, check the time it takes a known length to burn. If 12 inches burns in 30 seconds, a 6 inch cord will ignite the grenade in 15 seconds. 2) Screw pipe cap to one end of the pipe. Place fuse cord with blasting cap into the opposite end so that the blasting cap is near the center of the pipe. NOTE: If plastic explosive is to be used, fill pipe BEFORE inserting blasting cap. Push a round stick into the center of the explosive to make a hole and then insert the blasting cap. 3) Pour explosive or propellant into pipe a little bit at a time. Tap the base of the pipe frequently to settle filler. 4) Drill a hole in the center of the unassembled pipe caplarge enough for the fuse cord to pass through. 5) Wipe pipe threads to remove any filler material. Slide the drilled pipe cap over the fuse and screw handtight onto the pipe. Ready to go!

Home-brew blast cannon

2004-10-13T21:32:00.001-07:00

Materials needed: -1 plastic drain pipe, 3 feet long, at least 3 1/2 inches in diameter -1 smaller plastic pipe, about 6 inches long, 2 inches in diameter -1 large lighter, with fluid refills (this gobbles it up!) -1 pipe cap to fit the large pipe, 1 pipe cap to fit the small pipe -5 feet of bellwire -1 SPST rocker switch -16v polaroid pot-a-pulse battery -15v relay (get this at Radio Shack) -Electrical Tape -One free afternoon Procedure: - Cut the bell wire into three equal pieces, and strip the ends - Cut a hole in the side of the large pipe, the same diameter as the small pipe. Thread the hole and one end of the small pipe. they should screw together easily. - Take a piece of scrap metal, and bend it into an "L" shape, then attach it to the level on the lighter: /------------------------gas switch is here V /------ !lighter!!<---metal lever !!! !! Now, every time you pull the 'trigger' gas should flow freely from the lighter. You may need to enlarge the 'gas port' on your lighter, if you wish to be able to fire more rapidly. - Connect two wires to the two posts on the switch - Cut two holes in the side of the smaller tube, one for the switch on the bottom, and one for the metal piece on the top. Then, mount the switch in the bottom, running the wires up and out of the top. - Mount the lighter/trigger in the top. Now the switch should rock easily, and the trigger should cause the lighter to pour out gas. Re-screw the smaller tube into the larger one, hold down the trigger a bit, let it go, and throw a match in there. If all goes well, you should hear a nice big 'THUD!' - Get a hold of the relay, and take off the top. 1--------------- v/ 2--------------/<--- the center object is the metal finger inside 3 the relay cc-------------/ oo----------------4 ii ll----------------5 Connect (1) to one of the wires coming from the switch. Connect (2) to (4), and connect (5) to one side of the battery. Connect the remaining wire from the switch to the other side of the battery. Now you should be able to get the relay to make a little 'buzzing' sound when you flip the switch and you should see some tiny little sparks. - Now, carefully mount the relay on the inside of the large pipe, towards the back. Screw on the smaller pipe, tape the battery to the side of the cannon barrel (yes, but looks aren't everything!) - You should now be able to let a little gas into the barrel and set it off by flipping the switch. - Put the cap on the back end of the large pipe VERY SECURELY. You are now ready for the first trial-run! To Test: Put something very, very large into the barrel, just so that it fits 'just right'. Now, find a strong guy (the recoil will probably knock you on your ass if you aren't careful!). Put on a shoulderpad, earmuffs, and possibly some other protective clothing (trust the Jolly Roger! You are going to need it!). Hold the trigger down for 30 seconds, hold on tight, and hit the switch. With luck and the proper adjustments, you should be able to put a frozed orange through 1/4 or plywood at 25 feet. Have fun!

Fuses

2004-10-13T21:32:00.000-07:00

You would be surprised how many files are out there that use what falls under the category of a "fuse." They assume that you just have a few lying around, or know where to get them. Well, in some parts of the country, fuses are extremely hard to come by... so this file tells you how to make your own. Both fuses presented here are fairly simple to make, and are fairly reliable.

SLOW BURNING FUSE ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

(approx. 2 inches per minute) Materials needed: - Cotton string or 3 shoelaces - Potassium Nitrate or Potassium Chlorate - Granulated sugar Procedure: - Wash the cotton string or showlaces in HOT soapy water, then rinse with fresh water - Mix the following together in a glass bowl: 1 part potassium nitrate or potassium chlorate 1 part granulated sugar 2 parts hot water - Soak strings or shoelaces in this solution - Twist/braid 3 strands together and allow them to dry - Check the burn rate to see how long it actually takes!!

FAST BURNING FUSE ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

(40 inches per minute) Materials needed: -Soft cotton string -fine black powder (empty a few shotgun shells!) -shallow dish or pan Procedure: - moisten powder to form a paste - twist/braid 3 strands of cotton together - rub paste into string and allow to dry - Check the burn rate!!!

Fertilizer Bomb

2004-10-13T21:31:00.000-07:00

Ingredients:
- Newspaper
- Fertilizer (the chemical kind, GREEN THUMB or ORCHO)
- Cotton
- Diesel fuel
Make a pouch out of the newspaper and put some fertilizer in it. Then put cotton on top. Soak the cotton with fuel. Then light and run like you have never ran before! This blows up 500 square feet so don't do it in an alley!!

Napalm I & II

2004-10-13T21:29:00.000-07:00

- Pour some gas into an old bowl, or some kind of container.
- Get some styrofoam and put it in the gas, until the gas won't eat anymore. You should have a sticky syrup.
- Put it on the end of something (don't touch it!!). The unused stuff lasts a long time!

About the best fire bomb is napalm. It has a thick consistancy, like jam and is best for use on vehilces or buildings. Napalms is simply one part gasoline and one part soap. The soap is either soap flakes or shredded bar soap. Detergents won't do. The gasoline must be heated in order for the soap to melt. The usual way is with a double boiler where the top part has at least a two-quart capicity. The water in the bottom part is brought to a boil and the double boiler is taken from the stove and carried to where there is no flame.
Then one part, by volume, of gasoline is put in the top part and allowed to heat as much as it will and the soap is added and the mess is stirred until it thickens. A better way to heat gasoline is to fill a bathtub with water as hot as you can get it. It will hold its heat longer and permit a much larger container than will the double boiler.

Household equivalants for chemicles

2004-10-13T21:25:00.000-07:00

It has come to my attention that many of these chemicles are sold under brand names, or have household equivalants. here is a list that might help you out. Also, see elsewhere in this Cookbook for a more complete listing............ acetic acid vinegar
aluminum oxide alumia
aluminum potassium sulfate alum
aluminum sulfate alum
ammonium hydroxide ammonia
carbon carbonate chalk
calcium hypochloride bleaching powder
calcium oxide lime
calcium sulfate plaster of paris
carbonic acid seltzer
carbon tetrachloride cleaning fluid
ethylene dichloride Dutch fluid
ferric oxide iron rust
glucose corn syrup
graphite pencil lead
hydrochloric acid muriatic acid
hydrogen peroxide peroxide
lead acetate sugar of lead
lead tetrooxide red lead
magnesium silicate talc
magnesium sulfate Epsom salts
naphthalene mothballs
phenol carbolic acid
potassium bicarbonate cream of tartar
potassium chromium sulf. chrome alum
potassium nitrate saltpeter
sodium dioxide sand
sodium bicarbonate baking soda
sodium borate borax
sodium carbonate washing soda
sodium chloride salt
sodium hydroxide lye
sodium silicate water glass
sodium sulfate glauber's salt
sodium thiosulfate photographer's hypo
sulferic acid battery acid
sucrose cane sugar
zinc chloride tinner's fluid
Keep this list handy at all times. If you can't seem to get one or more of the ingredients try another one. If you still can't, you can always buy small amounts from your school, or maybe from various chemical companies. When you do that, be sure to say as little as possible, if during the school year, and they ask, say it's for a experiment for school.

Street weapons of Rome - Sent in by Christian

2004-10-13T21:06:00.000-07:00

Yes, I believe its a true fact that adversity makes a man (street)wise, but anger cannot stand without a strong hand. And how strong can a hand be to take you out of an area in one piece when a gang has made a circle around you? Maybe an armed hand would be stronger? Yes. Absolutely!

Like in most cities of the world, my town was divided into many zones and "controlled" by gangs. Some things never change... "Casualties" in most cases are people who have nothing to do with these gangs because when a gang goes to "war" and the other party is not "home" they end up generally beating people from the zone which is "controlled" by the other gang...

Even from my early days I earned a "reputation,” having a native attraction to fights. Growing up in such place, where fights were not so uncommon, I had to develop some kind of awareness...to see in a glance what could save me and what could hurt me. And in both cases I found a single term: weapons.

So I started to look and ask for information everywhere...my martial arts Sensei/teachers, police officers, friends, and of course ex-cons. Along the time I found that there were weapons for certain times and certain "ages.”

Like the waves of fashion, some weapons were more "cool" and more used than others. I found that some weapons were used only in summer time, others only for cold season...

Some weapons arrived on streets only after 1989 when communism has fallen and Romania opened to the world entirely...for weapons too.

Anyway, streetfights can be (VERY RARE) one on one or can look like a medieval battle with organized groups with various tactics but for sure, streetfights as I know and saw them have nothing to do with chivalry, "au contrairre,” its a real bloody matter where those involved can take serious (or permanent) damage, where crippling your opponents can be your usual "modus operandi" or a way to save your own life. Receiving some baseball bats on the back of your head and having it transformed into a soccer ball is an experience that sometimes you cannot have again because you are already a vegetable on a wheel chair or worst- in a coffin.

Now back to the weapons. Briefly I will try to describe what I used/found/saw with little descriptions:

Bats and Pipes- are very common. These are the main street weapons. All shapes, lengths and materials are allowed. Drivers that travel a lot have a wooden bat or a length of pipe under their seat for sure. As well as taxi drivers which are attacked sometimes. Bats are widely used because are effective, inexpensive and with a good reach. I saw bats between 30 and 100 cm long. Among martial arts practitioners police batons, tonfa, and lately ASP batons and spring telescopic batons are very popular. Various lengths of hockey sticks are used because they are light and tough. I saw also, for "life and death" situations, bats wrapped with barbed wire or with bolts in them. Thick rebar on various lengths are present. Pipes can be iron, zinc or lead.

Chains and Flexibles - Another easy-to-find item on street "arsenal,” the chain can be seen in all his forms, long or short, thick or thin. Very popular in rock/hardcore/punk gangs is sometimes used weighted at end with a lock. It is mainly used against knives and short weapons. From my own experience, a thick piece of chain can crush the flesh with those sinister terminal links since a thin chain can, literally, cut you. I saw on the streets both regular chains and distribution and bike chains. Bike chains are not so flexibles in all planes like an usual chain but can be wrapped over fist in a more suitable manner ( and its not so painful when you strike).

An improvement was when on the streets appeared the chainsaw saws. They have dents and they are used for strikes. The chain is held by an improvised rubber hose put over chain and the dents must face the hand to grab better.

I saw years ago in winter time a guy with an feather insulated coat stroked with such chain, his coat was ripped and the image was similar with an exploding pillow. Another form of chains is called here "japca" and consist in a very thin chain with fishing hooks tied with strong fishing line one inch apart from one another. Just imagine... A very rare form it is a slightly big fishing 3-hook anchor (around 8-12 cm. long) used to hook limbs, shoulders, or the back of the neck.

Not very popular but still there are chain flails or chain whips. These improvised "morning stars” have a lock or bike motric pinions for weight. Most used handles are from broom sticks which are used also for homemade nunchaku (which had his own golden decade on streets between 1980-1990). I believe these weapons never grow in popularity because their big mass and dimensions.

A personal idea, yet still in a project stage, was to link between them 3 - 25 cm. long steel pieces. Folded, could be used like a palm stick and released, the three pieces will be just longer than 75 cm. A striking device with a good reach, not too stiff, not too flexible...I wonder if someone had this idea before?!...not Chinese 9 or 7 section whips...just this hybrid ...

Steel and electrical cables, rubber hoses with or without steel insertions, military belts with heavy buckles, fiberglass rods, steel metal saw blades are flexible and I have seen them in the alleys. Whips with steel wire shafts are common in rural areas...sometimes with wire fall or with a bolt nut.

Knives and Swords- So many that I cannot describe them in this article. Anyway, a great galley themselves. I believe that here knives were used in fights many centuries ago before towns and streets were made. I'm a "blade lover" and according to rumors "cutzitar"- how here people name a person who carry a blade and will rely on it in case of an armed fight/ knife fighter. (this Romanian term also describes a handy person who makes (nasty) tricks with knives or even a circus knife juggler but most times can be translated by "handy with knife") .Yeah, maybe that’s why I cant feel one finger on my left handJ. Don’t make boots with skin of my hands! You’ll get wetJ

Being related with these weapons I can say that I saw hundreds of models, both commercially, manufactured and homemade blades. As a rule, homemade blades are fixed but I saw some very nice custom spring knives. Spring knives and folders are very used as well as Balisongs. Fixed blade knives are used less because of laws and police officers can look at you pretty weird in a street search. Big knives and swords are used more on serious organized "wars" where possibility of an injury is higher. Many wiseguys carry knives as back-up weapons and many of them are brave enough to show you his blade from very near...of course, there are also many asses in lion skins...

Of course, here can be mentioned all-time favored neck bottles among short cutting devices and broken, big, lightbulbs which, as I saw, leaves ugly round scars on cheeks.

Swords, most of them are "ninja" models because of short length and bigger handle that can allow a strong two-handed grip. The swordsmanship is not at all Oriental but purely European, blocks being made with the sharp edge and not by deflection...a style developed by trial and fatal error. I saw many swords that appeared to be saw blades because of nicks in the blade and I also saw homemade swords constructed from big metal saws sharpened on a side. The bad thing about these destructed edges is that the flesh usually is tear not cut and if somebody survive such experience will have a hell of a "memories" on his body...

Swords are more a psychological weapon and many people use the unsharpened edge to strike but when it comes...can be very bad...

In prisons edged weapons are improvised from many materials like tin, glass, Plexiglas, and PVC. I heard also from various sources that cons improvise swords from bed metal sheets... The self-explanatory "Button hole makers" or "tire killers" exists also in form of short "Phillips" screwdrivers and awls made from bed steel coil springs with wooden handles.

Fist Enhancers- A very vast topic because those items were and still are very used and most of guys who hang out on streets know how to use them. Door keys, butterfly keys, thick nails wrapped with thread, aluminum and brass valve cocks (You know, the thing that you turn to turn on/off water in a pipe) used like a knuckle-duster along with "classic" aluminum and brass knuckles. Metal or wooden "Ts” (just like a push knife), "T" shaped double window knobs, usual door knobs, coins, plastic disposable lighters held between fingers, 1.5 volt batteries (walkman type), brass hardware pieces and round hose clamps worn on finger like a ring, small chain circles worn over fist. Half of small scissors with the ring on finger and the bar held in palm or the ring held in palm and the bar sticking between fingers (a versatile item!), small wrench keys, small pliers, elastic band wrist watches (put inside palm with the glass screen inside and used like a "slapper") and even sun glasses saw action in brawls and street fights.

A well respected item is the dented motric wheel from bikes. Known like a "knife deterrent" is used as a defensive weapon by knife fighters. The handle is just a portion of wheel which was wrapped with a rag and taped over. That gives a reasonable grip for hitting with it. Another variant of wheel is a steel or brass disk between 10 and 15 centimeters diameter which is bend 1/3 around a broom stick. The bend part is held against palm heel.

Lately I heard and I saw in hands thick markers, pens, CLOSED carpet cutters, and even small/thin aluminum deodorant spray units as well as commercially or wooden homemade kubotans. If an object can hurt, just take a strong grip and make it part of your opponent...simple huh!?

Concussion- here the background of small/hand hitting weapons consists mainly in use of blackjacks, named after his French term "CASSE-TETE" which can be translated as skull crusher. The are made from a coiled spring with a steel or lead ball. Sometimes they are just that and I found that in use, the spring can pinch your skin. There are no commercially made blackjacks here (they are especially mentioned in laws) and all pieces I saw were manufactured by individuals.

My way of making a blackjack is to make a mold from plaster of Paris and inserting in it, still wet, a 35mm film canister, a medicine bottle or a yellow "Kinder" chocolate egg canister (to eliminate further file work to get a rounded head shape).

After plaster is set/dry, take out the canister. Put in the remaining hole a suitable coiled spring and fill it with melted lead. After lead cools down, insert a rubber hose over spring. Tape all. If you want a lanyard, just force and glue into the spring a short wooden dowel, pierce it and attach a string.

The "old timers" used a big lead ball and as I learned from an old ex-con, God rest his soul; the ball was made in a round mold. To make a ball mold, you must put in plaster a wax ball ( or a small balloon or condom which is punctured with a pin and pulled out after plaster is set). I didn’t saw too much "slappers" but I think with 2 lead pieces melted in a soup spoon held in place with 2 screws on a steel sheet someone could make an usable slapper. (Flat Sap)

Other concussion items used are pressure hoses with wire outer-layer and metal fittings on ends, small chains with locks, metal whistles with lanyards, door keys with a longer lanyard, bike rubber inner tubes tied on ends and filled with sand , short heavy chains or weighted steel cables and inserted in rubber hose. A hard hitting item is a small Coca-Cola plastic bottle shrinked (so made smaller and thinner) with boiling water and filled with sand.

Slungshots are very rare used and usually are just short pipe fist enhancers with a nylon cord. An Ukrainian friend of mine, Alexei (Nazdrovyie) served in Navy and told me about a slungshot he used made from a lead ball encased in a monkeyfist knot made from nylon cord. I understood that variations were made with big nut bolts and machine gun bullets or brass casings filled with lead. The lengths of string was measured from elbow to the finger tips of user because it was swung safer, used a little space and was controlled better.

This monkeyfist slungshot in Romania, could be found more frequently in harbor towns as keychains. Even its not an "Mariners only" weapon seems that seamen have a pronounced tendency to use it. Kind of legacy I presume...

A weird (and also very rare) mix between a slungshot and a slingshot its a slungshot made with a strong elastic band. It can be used like a slungshot or can be upgraded to a devastating level aiming the opponent and shooting the lead ball like a slingshot...

Making LSD

2004-10-13T19:06:00.000-07:00

I think, of all the drugs on the black market today, LSD is the strangest. It is the most recent major drug to come to life in the psychedelic subculture. (Blah blah blah... let's get to the good stuff: How to make it in your kitchen!!) 1) Grind up 150 grams of Morning Glory seeds or baby Hawaiian wood rose seeds. 2) In 130 cc. of petroleum ether, soak the seeds for two days. 3) Filter the solution through a tight screen. 4) Throw away the liquid, and allow the seed mush to dry. 5) For two days allow the mush to soak in 110 cc. of wood alcohol. 6) Filter the solution again, saving the liquid and labeling it "1." 7) Resoak the mush in 110 cc. of wood alcohol for two days. 8) Filter and throw away the mush. 9) Add the liquid from the second soak to the solution labeled "1." 10) Pour the liquid into a cookie tray and allow it to evaporate. 11) When all of the liquid has evaporated, a yellow gum remains. This should be scraped up and put into capsules. 30 grams of Morning Glory seeds = 1 trip 15 Hawaiian wood rose seeds = 1 trip Many companies, such as Northop-King have been coating their seeds with a toxic chemical, which is poison. Order seeds from a wholesaler, as it is much safer and cheaper. Hawaiian wood rose seeds can be ordered directly from: Chong's Nursery and Flowers P.O. Box 2154 Honolulu, Hawaii LSD DOSAGES ----------- The basic dosages of acid vary according to what kind of acid is available and what medium of ingestion is used. Chemically, the potency of LSD-25 is measured in micrograms, or mics. If you're chemically minded or making your own acid, then computing the number of micrograms is very important. Usually between 500 and 800 mics is plenty for an 8 hour trip, depending on the quality of the acid, of course. I have heard of people taking as much as 1,500-2,000 mics. This is not only extremely dangerous, it is extremely wasteful. LSD comes packaged in many different forms. The most common are listed below: 1) The brown spot, or a piece of paper with a dried drop of LSD on it, is always around. Usually one spot equals one trip. 2) Capsuled acid is very tricky, as the cap can be almost any color, size, or potency. Always ask what the acid is cut with, as a lot of acid is cut with either speed or strychnine. Also note dosage. 3) Small white or colored tablets have been known to contain acid, but, as with capsuled acid, it's impossible to tell potency, without asking.

Chemical Fire Bottle

2004-10-13T19:02:00.000-07:00

This incendiary bottle is self-igniting on target impact. Materials Required ------------------ How Used Common Source
Sulphuric Acid Storage Batteries Motor Vehicles
Material Processing Industrial Plants
Gasoline Motor Fuel Gas Station or
Motor Vehicles
Potassium Chlorate Medicine Drug Stores
Sugar Sweetening Foods Food Store
Glass bottle with stopper (roughly 1 quart size)
Small Bottle or jar with lid.
Rag or absorbant paper (paper towels, newspaper)
String or rubber bandsProcedure: --------- 1) Sulphuric Acid MUST be concentrated. If battery acid or other dilute acid is used, concentrate it by boiling until dense white fumes are given off. Container used to boil should be of enamel-ware or oven glass. CAUTION: Sulphuric Acid will burn skin and destroy clothing. If any is spilled, wash it away with a large quantity of water. Fumes are also VERY dangerous and should not be inhaled. 2) Remove the acid from heat and allow to cool to room temperature. 3) Pour gasoline into the large (1 quart) bottle until it is approximately 1/3 full. 4) Add concentrated sulphuric acid to gasoline slowly until the bottle is filled to within 1" to 2" from top. Place the stopper on the bottle. 5) Wash the outside of the bottle thoroughly with clear water. CAUTION: If this is not done, the fire bottle may be dangerous to handle during use! 6) Wrap a clean cloth or several sheets of absorbant paper around the outside of the bottle. Tie with string or fasten with rubber bands. 7) Dissolve 1/2 cup (100 grams) of potassium chlorate and 1/2 cup (100 grams) of sugar in one cup (250 cc) of boiling water. 8) Allow the solution to cool, pour into the small bottle and cap tightly. The cooled solution should be approx. 2/3 crystals and 1/3 liquid. If there is more than this, pour off excess before using. CAUTION: Store this bottle seperately from the other bottle! How To Use: ---------- 1) Shake the small bottle to mix contents and pour onto the cloth or paper around the large bottle. Bottle can be used wet or after solution is dried. However, when dry, the sugar-Potassium chlorate mixture is very sensitive to spark or flame and should be handled accordingly. 2) Throw or launch the bottle. When the bottle breaks against a hard surface (target) the fuel will ignite

Nail Bomb

2004-10-13T19:01:00.000-07:00

Effective fragmentation grenades can be made from a block of tnt or other blasting explosive and nails. Material Required: ----------------- Block of TNT or other blasting explosive Nails Non-electric (military or improvised) blasting cap Fuse Cord Tape, string, wire, or glue Procedure: --------- 1) If an explosive charge other than a standard TNT block is used, make a hole in the center of the charge for inserting the blasting cap. TNT can be drilled with relative safety. With plastic explosives, a hole can be made by pressing a round stick into the center of the charge. The hole should be deep enough that the blasting cap is totally within the explosive. 2) Tape, tie, or glue one or two rows of closely packed nails to the sides of the explosive block. Nails should completely cover the four surfaces of the block. 3) Place blasting cap on one end of the fuse cord and crimp with pliers. NOTE: To find out how long the fuse cord should be, check the time it takes a known length to burn. If 12 inches (30 cm) burns for 30 seconds, a 10 second delay will require a 4 inch (10 cm) fuse. 4) Insert the blasting cap in the hole in the block of explosive. Tape or tie fuse cord securly in place so that it will not fall out when the grenade is thrown. Alternate Use: ------------- An effective directional anti-personnel mine can be made by placing nails on only one side of the explosive block. For thi case, and electric blasting cap can be used.

Dealing with the Rate & Route Operator

2004-10-13T18:50:00.000-07:00

It seems that fewer and fewer people have blue boxes these days, and that is really too bad. Blue boxes, while not all that great for making free calls (since the TPC can tell when the call was made, as well as where it was too and from), are really a lot of fun to play with. Short of becoming a real live TSPS operator, they are about the only way you can really play with the network. For the few of you with blue boxes, here are some phrases which may make life easier when dealing with the rate & route (R&R) operators. To get the R&R op, you send a KP + 141 + ST. In some areas you may need to put another NPA before the 141 (i.e., KP + 213 + 141 + ST), if you have no local R&R ops. The R&R operator has a myriad of information, and all it takes to get this data is mumbling cryptic phrases. There are basically four special phrases to give the R&R ops. They are NUMBERS route, DIRECTORY route, OPERATOR route, and PLACE NAME. To get an R&R an area code for a city, one can call the R&R operator and ask for the numbers route. For example, to find the area code for Carson City, Nevada, we'd ask the R&R op for "Carson City, Nevada, numbers route, please." and get the answer, "Right... 702 plus." meaning that 702 plus 7 digits gets us there. Sometimes directory assistance isn't just NPA + 131. The way to get these routings is to call R&R and ask for "Anaheim, California, directory route, please." Of course, she'd tell us it was 714 plus, which means 714 + 131 gets us the D.A. op there. This is sort of pointless example, but I couldn't come up with a better one on short notice. Let's say you wanted to find out how to get to the inward operator for Sacremento, California. The first six digits of a number in that city will be required (the NPA and an NXX). For example, let us use 916 756. We would call R&R, and when the operator answered, say, "916 756, operator route, please." The operator would say, "916 plus 001 plus." This means that 916 + 001 + 121 will get you the inward operator for Sacramento. Do you know the city which corresponds to 503 640? The R&R operator does, and will tell you that it is Hillsboro, Oregon, if you sweetly ask for "Place name, 503 640, please." For example, let's say you need the directory route for Sveg, Sweden. Simply call R&R, and ask for, "International, Baden, Switzerland. TSPS directory route, please." In response to this, you'd get, "Right... Directory to Sveg, Sweden. Country code 46 plus 1170." So you'd route yourself to an international sender, and send 46 + 1170 to get the D.A. operator in Sweden. Inward operator routings to various countries are obtained the same way "International, London, England, TSPS inward route, please." and get "Country code 44 plus 121." Therefore, 44 plus 121 gets you inward for London. Inwards can get you language assitance if you don't speak the language. Tell the foreign inward, "United Staes calling. Language assitance in completing a call to (called party) at (called number)." R&R operators are people are people too, y'know. So always be polite, make sure use of 'em, and dial with care.

Nitroglycerin Recipe

2004-10-13T18:41:00.000-07:00

Like all chemists I must advise you all to take the greatest care and caution when you are doing this. Even if you have made this stuff before. This first article will give you information on making nitroglyerin, the basic ingredient in a lot of explosives such as straight dynamites, and geletin dynamites. Making nitroglycerin 1. Fill a 75-milliliter beaker to the 13 ml. Level with fuming red nitric acid, of 98% pure concentration. 2. Place the beaker in an ice bath and allow to cool below room temp. 3. After it has cooled, add to it three times the amount of fuming sulferic acid (99% h2so4). In other words, add to the now-cool fuming nitric acid 39 ml. Of fuming sulferic acid. When mixing any acids, always do it slowly and carefully to avoid splattering. 4. When the two are mixed, lower thier temp. By adding more ice to the bath, about 10-15 degrees centigrade. (Use a mercury-operated thermometer) 5. When the acid solution has cooled to the desired temperature, it is ready for the glycerin. The glycerin must be added in small amounts using a medicine dropper. (Read this step about 10 times!) Glycerin is added slowly and carefully (i mean careful!) Until the entire surface of the acid it covered with it. 6. This is a dangerous point since the nitration will take place as soon as the glycerin is added. The nitration will produce heat, so the solution must be kept below 30 degrees centigrade! If the solution should go above 30 degrees, immediately dump the solution into the ice bath! This will insure that it does not go off in your face! 7. For the first ten minutes of nitration, the mixture should be gently stirred. In a normal reaction the nitroglycerin will form as a layer on top of the acid solution, while the sulferic acid will absorb the excess water. 8. After the nitration has taken place, and the nitroglycerin has formed on the top of the solution, the entire beaker should be transferred slowly and carefully to another beaker of water. When this is done the nitroglycerin will settle at the bottem so the other acids can be drained away. 9. After removing as much acid as posible without disturbing the nitroglycerin, remove the nitroglycerin with an eyedropper and place it in a bicarbonate of soda (sodium bicarbonate in case you didn't know) solution. The sodium is an alkalai and will nuetralize much of the acid remaining. This process should be repeated as much as necesarry using blue litmus paper to check for the presence of acid. The remaining acid only makes the nitroglycerin more unstable than it already is. 10. Finally! The final step is to remove the nitroglycerin from the bicarbonate. His is done with and eye- dropper, slowly and carefully. The usual test to see if nitration has been successful is to place one drop of the nitroglycerin on metal and ignite it. If it is true nitroglycerin it will burn with a clear blue flame. ** Caution ** Nitro is very sensative to decomposition, heating dropping, or jarring, and may explode if left undisturbed and cool.

Dust Bomb Instructions

2004-10-13T18:39:00.000-07:00

An initiator which will initiate common material to produce dust explosions can be rapidly and easily constructed. This type of charge is ideal for the destruction of enclosed areas such as rooms or buildings. Material Required ----------------- A flat can, 3 in. (8 cm) in diameter and 1-1/2 in. (3-3/4 cm) high. A 6- 1/2 ounce tuna can serves the purpose quite well. Blasting cap Explosive Aluminum (may be wire, cut sheet, flattened can, or powder) Large nail, 4 in. (10 cm) long Wooden rod - 1/4 in. (6 mm) diameter Flour, gasoline, and powder or chipped aluminum NOTE: Plastic explosive produce better explosions than cast explosives. Procedure: --------- 1) Using the nail, press a hole through the side of the tuna can 3/8 inch to 1/2 inch (1 to 1-1/2 cm) from the bottom. Using a rotating and lever action, enlarge the hole until it will accomodate the blasting cap. 2) Place the wooden rod in the hole and position the end of the rod at the center of the can. 3) Press explosive into the can, being sure to surround the rod, until it is 3/4 inch (2 cm) from the top of the can. Carefully remove the wooden rod. 4) Place the aluminum metal on top of the explosive. 5) Just before use, insert the blasting cap into the cavity made by the rod. The initiator is now ready to use. NOTE: If it is desired to carry the initiator some distance, cardboard may be pressed on top of the aluminum to insure against loss of material. How to Use: ---------- This particular unit works quite well to initiate charges of five pounds of flour, 1/2 gallon (1-2/3 litres) of gasoline, or two pounds of flake painters aluminum. The solid materials may merely be contained in sacks or cardboard cartons. The gasoline may be placed in plastic coated paper milk cartons, as well as plastic or glass bottles. The charges are placed directly on top of the initiator and the blasting cap is actuated electrically or by a fuse depending on the type of cap employed. this will destroy a 2,000 cubic feet enclosure (building 10 x 20 x 10 feet). Note: For larger enclosures, use proportionally larger initiators and charges.

Yummy Marihuana Recipes

2004-10-13T18:38:00.000-07:00

courtesy of the Jolly Roger
Acapulco Green
--------------
3 ripe avocados
1/2 cup chopped onions
2 teaspoons chili powder
3 tablespoons wine vinegar
1/2 cup chopped marahuana (grass)
Mix the vinegar, grass, and chili powder together and let the
mixture stand for one hour. Then add avocados and onions and mash
it all together. It can be served with tacos or as a dip.
Pot Soup
--------
1 can condensed beef broth
3 tablespoons grass
3 tablespoons lemon juice
1/2 can water
3 tablespoons chopped watercress
Combine all ingredients in a saucepan and bring to a boil over
medium heat. Place in a refrigerator for two to three hours,
reheat, and serve.
Pork and Beans and Pot
----------------------
1 large can (1 lb. 13 oz.) pork and beans
1/2 cup grass
4 slices bacon
1/2 cup light molasses
1/2 teaspoon hickory salt
3 pineapple rings
Mix together in a casserole, cover top with pineapple and bacon,
bake at 350 degrees for about 45 minutes. Serves about six.
The Meat Ball
-------------
1 lb. hamburger
1/4 cup chopped onions
1 can cream of mushroom soup
1/4 cup bread crumbs
3 tablespoons grass
3 tablespoons India relish
Mix it all up and shape into meat balls. Brown in frying pan and
drain. Place in a casserole with soup and 1/2 cup water, cover and
cook over low heat for about 30 minutes. Feeds about four people.
Spaghetti Sauce
---------------
1 can (6 oz.) tomato paste
2 tablespoons olive oil
1/2 cup chopped onions
1/2 cup chopped grass
1 pinch pepper
1 can (6 oz.) water
1/2 clove minced garlic
1 bay leaf
1 pinch thyme
1/2 teaspoon salt
Mix in large pot, cover and simmer with frequent stirring for two
hours. Serve over spaghetti.
Pot Loaf
--------
1 packet onion soup mix
1 (16 oz.) can whole peeled tomatoes
1/2 cup chopped grass
2 lbs. ground beef or chicken or turkey
1 egg
4 slices bread, crumbled
Mix all ingredients and shape into a loaf. Bake for one hour in
400-degree oven. Serves about six.
Chili Bean Pot
--------------
2 lbs. pinto beans
1 lb. bacon, cut into two-inch sections
2 cups red wine
4 tablespoons chili powder
1/2 clove garlic
1 cup chopped grass
1/2 cup mushrooms
Soak beans overnight in water. In a lagre pot pour boiling water
over beans and simmer for at least an hour, adding more water to
keep beans covered. Now add all other ingredients and continue to
simmer for another three hours. Salt to taste. Serves about ten.
Bird Stuffing
-------------
5 cups rye bread crumbs
2 tablespoons poultry seasoning
1/2 cup each of raisins and almonds
1/2 cup celery
1/3 cup chopped onions
3 tablespoons melted butter
1/2 cup chopped grass
2 tablespoons red wine
Mix it all together, and then stuff it in.
Apple Pot
---------
4 apples (cored)
1/2 cup brown sugar
1/4 cup water
4 cherries
1/3 cup chopped grass
2 tablespoons cinnamon
Powder the grass in a blender, then mix grass with sugar and water.
Stuff cores with this paste. Sprinkle apples with cinnamon, and
top with a cherry. Bake for 25 minutes at 350 degrees.
Pot Brownies
------------
1/2 cup flour
3 tablespoons shortening
2 tablespoons honey
1 egg (beaten)
1 tablespoon water
1/2 cup grass
pinch of salt
1/4 teaspoon baking powder
1/2 cup sugar
2 tablespoons corn syrup
1 square melted chocolate
1 teaspoon vanilla
1/2 cup chopped nuts
Sift flour, baking powder, and salt together. Mix shortening,
sugar, honey, syrup, and egg. Then blend in chocolate and other
ingredients, and mix well. Spread in an 8-inch pan and bake for 20
minutes ate 350 degrees.
Banana Bread
------------
1/2 cup shortening
2 eggs
1 teaspoon lemon juice
3 teaspoons baking powder
1 cup sugar
1 cup mashed bananas
2 cups sifted flour
1/2 cup chopped grass
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 cup chopped nuts
Mix the shortening and sugar, beat eggs, and add to mixture.
Seperately mix bananas with lemon juice and add to the first
mixture. Sift flour, salt, and baking powder together, then mix
all ingredients together. Bake for 1 1/4 hours at 375 degrees.
Sesame Seed Cookies
-------------------
3 oz. ground roast sesame seeds
3 tablespoons ground almonds
1/4 teaspoon nutmeg
1/4 cup honey
1/2 teaspoon ground ginger
1/4 teaspoon cinnamon
1/4 oz. grass
Toast the grass until slightly brown and then crush it in a
mortar. Mix crushed grass with all other ingredients, in a
skillet. Place skillet over low flame and add 1 tablespoon of salt
butter. Allow it to cook. When cool, roll mixture into little
balls and dip them into the sesame seeds.
If you happen to be in the country at a place where pot is being
grown, here's one of the greatest recipes you can try. Pick a
medium-sized leaf off of the marihuana plant and dip it into a cup
of drawn butter, add salt, and eat.

Do ya hate school?

2004-09-01T19:22:00.000-07:00

Do ya hate school? by The Jolly Roger
- One of my favorites for getting out of a class or two is to call in a bomb threat. Tell 'em that it is in a locker. Then they have to check them all, whilst you can slip away for an hour or two. You can even place a fake bomb (in any locker but YOURS!). They might cancel school for a week while they investigate (of course, you will probably have to make it up in the summer...).
- Get some pure potassium or pure sodium, put it in a capsule, and flush it down the toilet (smells awful! Stinks up the whole school!).
- Use a smoke grenade in the hallway.
- Steal the computer passwords & keys. Or steal the 80 column cards inside if they are (gag) IBM.
- Make friends with student assistants and have them change your grades when the teachers hand in their bubble sheets for the report cards.
- Spit your gum out on the carpet in the library or whatever and grind it into the carpet. Watch the janitors cry!
- Draw on lockers or spraypaint on the building that the principal is a fascist.
- Stick a potato in the tailpipe of the principal's car.
- USE YOUR IMAGINATION! -Jolly Roger-

Chemicals and Preps

2004-09-01T19:16:00.000-07:00

Anyone can get many chemicals from hardware stores, supermarkets, and drug stores to get the materials to make explosives or other dangerous compounds. A would-be terrorist would merely need a station wagon and some money to acquire many of the chemicals named here.
Chemical Used In Available at ________ _______ ____________
_____________________________________________________________________________ alcohol, ethyl * alcoholic beverages liquor stores
solvents (95% min. for both) hardware stores _____________________________________________________________________________ ammonia + CLEAR household ammonia supermarkets/7-eleven _____________________________________________________________________________ ammonium instant-cold paks, drug stores,
nitrate fertilizers medical supply stores _____________________________________________________________________________ nitrous oxide pressurizing whip cream party supply stores _____________________________________________________________________________ magnesium firestarters surplus/camping stores ____________________________________________________________________________ lecithin vitamins pharmacies/drug stores _____________________________________________________________________________ mineral oil cooking, laxative supermarket/drug stores _____________________________________________________________________________ mercury @ mercury thermometers supermarkets/hardware stores _____________________________________________________________________________ sulfuric acid uncharged car batteries automotive stores _____________________________________________________________________________ glycerine ? pharmacies/drug stores _____________________________________________________________________________ sulfur gardening gardening/hardware store _____________________________________________________________________________ charcoal charcoal grills supermarkets/gardening stores _____________________________________________________________________________ sodium nitrate fertilizer gardening store _____________________________________________________________________________ cellulose (cotton) first aid drug/medical supply stores _____________________________________________________________________________ strontium nitrate road flares surplus/auto stores, _____________________________________________________________________________ fuel oil kerosene stoves surplus/camping stores, _____________________________________________________________________________ bottled gas propane stoves surplus/camping stores, _____________________________________________________________________________ potassium permanganate water purification purification plants _____________________________________________________________________________ hexamine or hexamine stoves surplus/camping stores methenamine (camping) _____________________________________________________________________________ nitric acid ^ cleaning printing printing shops plates photography stores _____________________________________________________________________________ iodine & first aid drug stores _____________________________________________________________________________ sodium perchlorate solidox pellets hardware stores for cutting torches _____________________________________________________________________________
notes:
ethyl alcohol is mixed with methyl alcohol when it is used as a solvent. Methyl alcohol is very poisonous. Solvent alcohol must be at least 95% ethyl alcohol if it is used to make mercury fulminate. Methyl alcohol may prevent mercury fulminate from forming.
Ammonia, when bought in stores comes in a variety of forms. The pine and cloudy ammonias should not be bought; only the clear ammonia should be used to make ammonium triiodide crystals.
Mercury thermometers are becoming a rarity, unfortunately. They may be hard to find in most stores. Mercury is also used in mercury switches, which are available at electronics stores. Mercury is a hazardous substance, and should be kept in the thermometer or mercury switch until used. It gives off mercury vapors which will cause brain damage if inhaled. For this reason, it is a good idea not to spill mercury, and to always use it outdoors. Also, do not get it in an open cut; rubber gloves will help prevent this.
Nitric acid is very difficult to find nowadays. It is usually stolen by bomb makers, or made by the process described in a later section. A desired concentration for making explosives about 70%.
The iodine sold in drug stores is usually not the pure crystaline form that is desired for producing ammonium triiodide crystals. To obtain the pure form, it must usually be acquired by a doctor's prescription, but this can be expensive. Once again, theft is the means that terrorists result to.

* NITRIC ACID * SULFURIC ACID * AMMONIUM NITRATE

2.31 NITRIC ACID
There are several ways to make this most essential of all acids for explosives. One method by which it could be made will be presented. Once again, be reminded that these methods SHOULD NOT BE CARRIED OUT!!

Materials:
* sodium nitrate or potassium nitrate * distilled water * concentrated sulfuric acid
Equipment:
* adjustable heat source * retort * ice bath * stirring rod * collecting flask with stopper
1. Pour 32 milliliters of concentrated sulfuric acid into the retort. 2. Carefully weigh out 58 grams of sodium nitrate, or 68 grams of potassium nitrate. and add this to the acid slowly. If it all does not dissolve, carefully stir the solution with a glass rod until it does. 3. Place the open end of the retort into the collecting flask, and place the collecting flask in the ice bath. 4. Begin heating the retort, using low heat. Continue heating until liquid begins to come out of the end of the retort. The liquid that forms is nitric acid. Heat until the precipitate in the bottom of the retort is almost dry, or until no more nitric acid is forming. CAUTION: If the acid is headed too strongly, the nitric acid will decompose as soon as it is formed. This can result in the production of highly flammable and toxic gasses that may explode. It is a good idea to set the above apparatus up, and then get away from it.
Potassium nitrate could also be obtained from store-bought black powder, simply by dissolving black powder in boiling water and filtering out the sulfur and charcoal. To obtain 68 g of potassium nitrate, it would be necessary to dissolve about 90 g of black powder in about one litre of boiling water. Filter the dissolved solution through filter paper in a funnel into a jar until the liquid that pours through is clear. The charcoal and sulfur in black powder are insoluble in water, and so when the solution of water is allowed to evaporate, potassium nitrate will be left in the jar.

2.32 SULFURIC ACID
Sulfuric acid is far too difficult to make outside of a laboratory or industrial plant. However, it is readily available in an uncharged car battery. A person wishing to make sulfuric acid would simply remove the top of a car battery and pour the acid into a glass container. There would probably be pieces of lead from the battery in the acid which would have to be removed, either by boiling or filtration. The concentration of the sulfuric acid can also be increased by boiling it; very pure sulfuric acid pours slightly faster than clean motor oil.

2.33 AMMONIUM NITRATE
Ammonium nitrate is a very powerful but insensitive high-order explosive. It could be made very easily by pouring nitric acid into a large flask in an ice bath. Then, by simply pouring household ammonia into the flask and running away, ammonium nitrate would be formed. After the materials have stopped reacting, one would simply have to leave the solution in a warm place until all of the water and any unneutralized ammonia or acid have evaporated. There would be a fine powder formed, which would be ammonium nitrate. It must be kept in an airtight container, because of its tendency to pick up water from the air. The crystals formed in the above process would have to be heated VERY gently to drive off the remaining water.

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2004-08-29T00:59:00.000-07:00

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